A Flower of Summer

Not long after he arrived in Williamsburg, Chef Travis Brust drove a golf cart around the Golden Horseshoe Gold Course behind the Williamsburg Inn and was astonished to see red raspberries growing wild.

Master of Historic Gardening Eve Otmar smiled at that story because her research indicates that raspberries, which are a member of the rose family, were likely growing wild in Virginia in the 18th century too. Species of this edible fruit also were brought from Europe, prompting a debate on which type was best.

“The wild Rasberry is by some there, preferr’d to those, that were transplanted thither from England; but I cannot be of their Opinion,” wrote Robert Beverly in 1705 in The History and Present State of Virginia.

“Not everyone thought the berries they found growing wild in Virginia in the 18th century were the best,” Otmar said. “As Beverly wrote, many thought the imports from England were sweeter. Those varieties most likely originated in Belgium.”

Brust, now Colonial Williamsburg’s executive director of food and beverage, remembers taking culinary apprentices to Agriberry Farm to see how berries of all types are grown. There they learned that the family farmers, who for generations have been growing berries in Hanover, Virginia, often must use giant fans to cool the growing plants and mitigate the hot and humid conditions.

“Raspberries are great in smoothies or as a garnish in cocktails. They are pretty and add a touch of tartness in contrast to the sweetness of liquor,” he said.

In the recipe for baked raspberry-lemon oatmeal from Brust, the raspberries are not added until the mixture has been baking for a while. “Adding the berries later in the process preserves the color and integrity of the raspberries themselves, releasing their flavor without turning them into a jamlike consistency.

“At the Inn, we showcase the raspberry in its original form. We put them in salads and use them as an edible garnish on cheese plates,” he said.

When selecting berries at the grocery store, Brust recommends choosing fruit with a vibrant color in containers that are dry with no mildew. The best way to enjoy raspberries, he says, is to pick them yourself or buy them from a local grower at a farmers market.

“Because raspberries were native to the Williamsburg area and not solely imported from Europe, they were consumed by anyone who might want them,” Otmar said. “John Randolph mentions raspberries in his Treatise on Gardening, and there are also references in the research papers of 20th-century agricultural historian Charles Leach to raspberries growing wild.”

The imports clearly struggled in the cold winters of the North and the heat of the South.

Thomas Jefferson tried growing raspberries — with mixed success — according to The Fruits and Fruit Trees of Monticello by Peter Hatch. Jefferson reported planting raspberry plants or seeds seven different times between 1774 and 1812. Some of the species came from Belgium while others were brought back by Lewis and Clark. Hatch writes that the documentary record “suggests that Jefferson’s prized cultivars of European raspberries, which like his grapes were planted again and again, never flourished at Monticello.”

Adapted from Mary Randolph, The Virginia House-Wife (1824)
Yields 4 cups

1 pound raspberries
1 pound sugar
2 apples (or a 1.75-ounce box of fruit pectin)

1. Wash the raspberries and place them in a saucepan.
2. Pour the sugar over the berries. (If using fruit pectin, add it during this step.)
3. Peel the apples, retaining the peels. Chop the peeled apples and place them and the peels into the saucepan.
4. Boil for approximately 20 minutes or until the mixture has thickened to the desired consistency. (If using fruit pectin, follow the package instructions.)
5. Discard the apple peels.
6. Cool the mixture and then spoon into jars.

Serves 6

6 tablespoons unsalted butter (divided)
2 cups steel-cut Irish oats
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ cup pecans, chopped
2 cups water
4½ cups milk (may substitute almond, oat, cashew or soy milk)
1 medium lemon, zested
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups fresh raspberries (1½ cups if frozen)
½ cup raw or Demerara sugar
pinch flaked sea salt
½ cup heavy cream (optional)
1 cup fresh raspberries for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 375 F and use 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter to grease a 2-quart (8'' x 8'') baking pan.
2. Heat the rest of the butter in a large saucepan or skillet over medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the oats and toast in the pan for 3-4 minutes.
3. Add the cinnamon and pecans and toast for an additional 2 minutes.
4. Add the water, milk, lemon zest and kosher salt and bring to a light boil for 1 minute, stirring often.
5. Place the mixture into the greased baking pan and bake for 35 minutes.
6. Open the oven and lightly stir the mixture. Add the raspberries and gently stir them into the mixture until smooth. Sprinkle the sugar evenly over the top of the mixture.
7. Bake another 18-20 minutes until lightly golden and bubbling.
8. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 20-25 minutes before serving.
9. Just prior to serving, sprinkle the baked oatmeal with the flaked sea salt.
10. Place a portion of the oatmeal mixture into a small dish and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of heavy cream, if desired, along with fresh raspberries and a little lemon zest.